Unveiling South Korea’s Treasures: A Journey Through Seoul, Gyeongju, and Busan
By Dan Power, The Adventure Enthusiast
Strap in and brace yourselves for an exhilarating journey through the heart of South Korea. As an intrepid explorer, I’ve had the privilege of delving into some of the country’s most captivating mysteries. This time, I embarked on a personalized, private tour with my non-Korean wife and her parents, setting off on a five-day escapade through the vibrant cities of Seoul and Busan, as well as the historically rich town of Gyeongju. It was a special occasion, marking my in-laws’ inaugural visit to Korea, and we were eager to traverse a well-trodden path, thanks to the impeccable arrangements made by Kim’C Market, ensuring an unforgettable experience for my family.
Day 1: Seoul – Where Tradition Meets Innovation
Our journey commenced in the bustling heart of Seoul, where the echoes of ancient traditions harmonize with modern innovations. Upon landing at Incheon International Airport in the early hours, we wasted no time immersing ourselves in the vibrant tapestry of the capital.
After swiftly depositing our belongings at a charming Hanok Hotel nestled within the Bukchon Hanok Village, we hurried to the Gyeongbokgung Palace, an architectural marvel embodying the Kingdom of Joseon. As we meandered through its opulent halls and sprawling courtyards, we found ourselves enraptured by the intricate craftsmanship and timeless allure that enveloped us. Pro tip: Make sure to arrive early to catch the mesmerizing changing of the guard ceremony—it’s an experience that will linger in your memory long after the day is done. The ceremony unfolds twice daily, at 10 am and 2 pm, offering a captivating glimpse into Korea’s royal past.
Following the ceremony, a short stroll led us to Hanilkwan, a venerable institution steeped in history and renowned for its delectable Galbitang (beef rib soup)—a quintessential comfort dish cherished by Koreans. Established in 1939, Hanilkwan exudes an old-world charm that pairs harmoniously with its culinary delights. A word to the wise: To avoid the lunchtime rush, aim to arrive before noon or after 1:30 pm when the crowds have subsided.
Reinvigorated by our sumptuous repast, we returned to the palace for an immersive exploration. Spending a leisurely 2.5 hours amidst the treasures of the National Palace Museum of Korea, Geunjeongjeon, Gyeonghoeru (Royal Banquet Hall), and Hyangwonjeong, we marveled at the rich tapestry of Korea’s royal court.
With spirits buoyed and curiosity piqued, we ventured forth to wander the enchanting streets of Bukchon Hanok Village—a veritable time capsule amidst the bustling metropolis, where traditional hanok houses stand as silent sentinels, preserving the echoes of bygone eras.
Lunch: Hanilkwan (한일관, 50, Jong-ro 1-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul)
Day 2: Seoul – A Gourmet Tour
With its burgeoning culinary scene, Seoul solidified a rising culinary leader’s status in Asia. Four eateries made it to Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants and many young talents come back to open their own after hard training at the world’s renowned restaurants.
Despite the elusive nature of reservations at Onjium, our journey took an unexpected turn when Kim’C Travel came to our aid, securing us a coveted lunch spot at the Michelin-starred establishment nestled along a narrow road beside Gyeongbok Palace. Perched at a corner table on the fourth floor, we savored the impeccable view overlooking the palace grounds as we embarked on a gastronomic journey. Each dish of the tasting course was a masterpiece, meticulously crafted with both culinary finesse and aesthetic allure. Suranchae, in particular, captured our hearts with its exquisite flavors and artful presentation.
Venturing into the bustling streets of Gangnam, we immersed ourselves in the heartland of K-pop, strolling along the busy Garosugil or Garosu Street. Amidst the pulsating energy of the district, we discovered Seoul’s affinity for coffee, as chic coffee shops dotted the landscape, bustling with patrons indulging in their caffeine fix.
Our culinary escapade culminated in a cab to Sulsung Farm in Dogok-dong, an affluent residential district reminiscent of New York City’s TriBeca. Here, amidst the towering corporate offices, we dined at a farm-to-table restaurant renowned for its hanwoo, Korean beef cattle, raised on its two farms. Drawing discerning locals rather than tourists, the restaurant treated us to a sumptuous feast, leaving our taste buds tingling and our hearts full. With the bill totaling approximately $560, we headed back to our Korean hotel with contented bellies and cherished memories of its culinary delights.
Lunch: Onjium (온지음, 4-2, Jahamun-ro 16-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul)
Dinner: Sulsung Farm (설성목장, 57, Eonju-ro 30-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul,
Day 3: Gyeongju – A Journey Through Time
After quickly packing up, we eagerly boarded an early departing KTX bullet train bound for Gyeongju, a city steeped in centuries of history. Known as the “museum without walls,” Gyeongju is home to a treasure trove of ancient relics and archaeological wonders.
Our first destination was the awe-inspiring Seokguram Grotto, a UNESCO World Heritage site perched high atop Mount Toham. This Buddhist cave temple houses a monumental statue of the Buddha, surrounded by intricately sculpted gods, Bodhisattvas, and disciples. Carved into the granite cliffs between 751 and 774 AD, the grotto’s design echoes similar cave temples found in ancient India and China, showcasing the region’s cultural exchange and artistic ingenuity. The main chamber features a white granite statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha, seated in the bhumisparsha mudra gesture, symbolizing his enlightenment. Set against a lotus-halo backdrop, the Buddha radiates a sense of serenity and spiritual power, offering visitors a glimpse into the profound beauty of Buddhist art and architecture.
Our adventure led us to the renowned Bulguksa Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site nestled in the heart of Gyeongju. Located approximately a mile from Seokguram Grotto, we chose private transportation for convenience given the distance. This sacred site, dating back to the Shilla dynasty (57 B.C. to A.D. 935), captivated us with its three large exhibition halls. These halls vividly depicted traditional Korean life throughout history, showcasing elaborate scenes complemented by paintings, farm implements, and other artifacts. Of particular elegance was the Dabotap Pagoda, standing as a testament to the temple’s architectural splendor.
Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond in Gyeongju hold a significant place in Korea’s history as secondary palace sites of the ancient Silla kingdom. These palatial grounds were once bustling with activity, serving as venues for royal banquets and important gatherings. It’s fascinating to learn that King Gyeongsun of Silla hosted King Wang Geon of Goryeo here, discussing critical matters amidst the stunning surroundings.
Constructed during King Munmu’s reign, Wolji Pond was a marvel of engineering, with three islands and a picturesque 12-peaked mountain. The pond was adorned with beautiful flowers and trees, while rare birds and animals roamed its shores. Despite the palace’s eventual decline, its legacy lives on in the verses of poets and the strokes of calligraphers, who were inspired by the pond’s tranquil beauty.
Anapji Pond, as it came to be known, earned its name from the wild geese (‘an’) and ducks (‘ab’) that frequented its waters. However, excavations in the 1980s revealed pottery fragments inscribed with “Wolji,” suggesting the original name meant “a pond that reflects the moon.” This discovery led to the renaming of Anapji to Wolji Pond, a fitting tribute to its serene charm and timeless allure.
But Gyeongju isn’t just about ancient temples and historic sites—it’s also a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. We spent the evening biking the scenic trails, immersing ourselves in the natural beauty that surrounds this enchanting city.
Day 4: Busan – Where City Meets Sea
Our family’s journey culminates in the lively port city of Busan, where the hustle and bustle of towering skyscrapers seamlessly blend with the calming rhythm of ocean waves. The salty sea breeze greeted us, signaling the beginning of an unforgettable adventure.
First on our agenda? A culinary escapade like no other at Jagalchi Fish Market, a mecca for seafood lovers. From mouthwatering sashimi to succulent grilled octopus, the market tantalized our taste buds with its array of fresh catches straight from the sea.
Nestled along the seaside road in Busan’s Jung-gu, Jagalchi Market is a bustling hub of activity, where the sights and sounds of fishmongers peddling their wares create a vibrant atmosphere. Don’t miss the chance to interact with the Jagalchi Ajumeoni, the formidable women vendors who have been the heart and soul of this market since its inception.
After indulging in a seafood feast, we ventured to the enchanting Gamcheon Culture Village, affectionately dubbed the “Santorini of Korea.” Wandering through its maze of colorful alleyways adorned with vibrant murals, we couldn’t help but be swept away by the neighborhood’s artistic charm. Take a moment to soak in the ambiance at one of the local cafes, where you might just strike up a conversation with a passionate artist eager to share their story.
With spirits rejuvenated and cameras filled with memories, we made our way to Haeundae Beach, a sun-kissed haven that rivals the best coastal destinations in the world. Whether we were basking in the warm glow of the sun or marveling at the lively street performers, Haeundae Beach offered a slice of paradise for every member of our family. We spent the afternoon strolling along its sandy shores, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere reminiscent of the bustling streets of Marseille in France.
As evening descended, we retreated to a Jjimjilbang, a Korean sauna and hot bathhouse beloved by locals and visitors alike. Immerse ourselves in the soothing warmth of the baths, letting the stresses of the day melt away in the company of our loved ones.
For our final feast in Korea, we ventured to Tongyoung Anago Restaurant, a chaotic yet charming eatery specializing in delectable eel dishes. Amidst the lively chatter of fellow diners, we savored each bite of the fresh and flavorful cuisine, savoring the last moments of our Korean culinary adventure.
Dinner: Tongyoung Anago Restaurant (통영장어구이, 52 Jwadong-ro 14beon-gil, Haeundae-gu, Busan)
Day 5: Exploring and Reflecting
After a quick breakfast, we gathered our belongings and made our way to Busan International Airport, ready to move on to the next leg of our journey to Japan. As our time in South Korea drew to a close, waves of nostalgia washed over me, mingled with gratitude for the myriad experiences that had enriched our first family adventure in Asia.
From the serene temples of Gyeongju to the vibrant streets of Seoul and the lively beaches of Busan, each city had left an indelible mark on our hearts and minds. The memories we’ve created together will forever be cherished, weaving a tapestry of moments that define our time in the Land of the Morning Calm.
As we bid farewell to South Korea, I implore you to seize the opportunity to explore this captivating land for yourself. Pack your hiking boots, pack your sense of wonder, and embark on your own odyssey through the wonders of South Korea. May your travels be filled with discovery, joy, and endless adventures.